The wines of Quinta das Bágeiras, Bairrada

bageiras

Mário Sérgio’s Quinta das Bágeiras is one of the leading wineries in Bairrada. He created the domaine in 1989 from 12 hectares of vines he got from his grandfather, and grew it by a further 16 to its current size of 28 hectares spread over 10 different vineyard plots.

The wine style here marries a modern approach with a traditional one. All the grapes are hand-picked and the reds are fermented in lagares with wild yeasts, and the sparkling wines are all zero dosage.

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Quinta das Bágeiras Bruto Natural Rosé 2015
100% Baga. Fresh, tangy and bright with great acidity. Red cherries and lemons with a bit of grapefruit pith. Lovely precision here with a bit of refreshing tartness. Has real intensity. 90/100

Quinta das Bágeiras Super Reserva Rosé Brut Nature 2011
This has 12 months skin contact and is aged on lees for a long time. Complex, dense and intense with notes of herbs and spice. Has some subtle tea and red cherry character, as well as a hint of dried leaves. Nicely complex and with lots of intensity. 91/100

Quinta das Bágeiras Super Reserva Brut Nature 2014
Maria Gomes and Bical, stainless steel fermentation, two years on lees. Zesty, pithy, citrussy nose is quite intense. Very lively and lemony on the palate. Herby and intense with zesty acidity. 89/100

Quinta das Bágeiras Grande Reserva Brut Nature 2011
This spends five years ageing on lees. Complex and taut with a subtle toast and orange peel edge to the bright, slightly pithy citrus fruits. Linear and intense with nice focus and weight. Quite complex. 90/100

Quinta das Bágeiras Avô Fausto Branco 2014
Maria Gomes from sandy soil aged in used French oak. Intense, nutty, waxy nose. Some coconut and spice on the palate with rich pear and apple fruit. Has a savoury, nutty edge. 88/100

Quinta das Bágeiras Avô Fausto Branco 2015
Maria Gomes, with 20% from chalky/clay soils. There’s a bit of citrus freshness here along with some dense, waxy, nutty spice and pear fruit. Quite burly and dense, but with a bit of brightness. 89/100

Quinta das Bágeiras Garrafeira 2015
Maria Gomes and Bical, old vines, fermented in old vats. Citrussy and dense with nice complexity. Has real presence with pear and white peach and a bit of fine spiciness. Tending towards elegance. 91/100

Quinta das Bágeiras Pai Abel Branco 2014
From a single vineyard, a blend of Maria Gomes and Bical. Very pure and linear with a beguiling waxy undercurrent to the nicely dense citrus fruit. Some pear and spice, too. Shows lovely nutty notes adding interest to the fresh fruit. Good acidity. 92/100

Quinta das Bágeiras Garrafeira Branco 2012 (magnum)
Very lively, aromatic citrus fruit nose. Has richness and density, but also freshness. This has knit together beautifully and is smooth, with a touch of marmalade and apricot richness under the smooth pear and citrus fruit. Lovely. 92/100

Quinta das Bágeiras Avô Fausto Tinto 2013
Refined and quite elegant on the nose. Supple, juicy palate with good acidity and a stony minerality under the raspberry and cherry fruit. Quite grippy, but with finesse. 91/100

Quinta das Bágeiras Avô Fausto Tinto 2012
Lifted, spicy and detailed with vivid cherry and berry fruits. Firm and grippy with good structure. Has a slight balsamic edge but is aiming at elegance. 88/100

Quinta das Bágeiras Avô Fausto Tinto 2010
Good structure here with an earthy, spicy, savoury edge to the bright raspberry and cherry fruit. Has plenty of grip, but the tannins are fine-grained. Structured, determined wine of real appeal. Some elegance here. 92/100

Quinta das Bágeiras Pai Abel Tinto 2011
Wonderful freshness and concentration here with subtle earthy, spicy savouriness, a hint of baked cherry pie, and some robust raspberry fruit. Lively acidity and firm tannins here. Has a bit of damson bitterness on the finish. 91/100

Quinta das Bágeiras Garrafeira 2013
Dense and expressive with taut berry fruits and some minty spiciness. The palate is dense, structured and has lots of vivid berry fruits with hints of leather and earth. Lovely density and structure and freshness: has lots of potential. 93/100

Quinta das Bágeiras Garrafiera 2005
This is showing beautifully. There’s density and structure, with lots of raspberry and cherry fruit, but also some earth and leather complexity. The tannins are firm, but have started to yield a little, and there’s good elegance here. Show lovely harmony with a lot going on, but all of it working in the same direction. 94/100

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