Kobe beef is the theme of Biftek Kawamura, a high-end chain of teppanyaki restaurants. We visited their latest restaurant, in Roppongi (Tokyo), and were treated to a memorable meal.

This is not a cheap eat. It is expensive. But it’s also beautifully done. In a private dining room, five of us had our own chef, who cooked everything on a very stylish grill that merged into our table.

It wasn’t just about Kobe beef, though. We started with a few thin slices of beef cooked in a broth in heat-resistant plastic bags on the grill. It looked a bit odd, but this table theatre was also delicious.

Then we had a pretty starter with beef three ways, followed by a mixed leaf salad. Both very good.

The main action began with vegetables on the grill, including possibly the most delicious onion I’ve ever had.

Then out came the Kobe beef. Kobe beef comes from Tajima-gyu cows (a special breed of Wagyu cattle), and is graded according to its quality. We had a small lump of No. 5, which is called Tajima beef (it’s not Kobe beef until it is grade 6), and then a larger lump of No. 7. Both were quite exquisite, and grilled to perfection right in front of us.

You don’t get a lot (it’s insanely expensive), but a little goes a long way. To finish the savoury courses, a rice dish. Simple, but exquisite, cooked on the grill in front of us.